FORD 100E (1953-1962)

Fast Facts

• Engine: 1172cc/4-cyl
• Power (bhp/rpm): 36/4500
• Torque (lb ft@rpm): 52/2500
• Top speed: 70mph
• 0-60mph: 33.8sec
• Fuel consumption: 35mpg
• Transmission: 3-speed manual
• Length: 12ft 6in (3.81m)
• Width (inc mirrors): 5ft 0in (1.52m)
• Weight: 1708lb (776kg)
• Books: Technical Tips for the 100E and 107E by Jim Norman. From the Ford Sidevalve Owners’ Club 100E Super Profi le by Melvyn Smith. Haynes, ISBN 0-854294-708 (out of print) Anglia, Prefect, Popular by Michael Allen. MRP, ISBN 0-947981-07-1 (out of print) Ford workshop manual (£21) and parts book (£18.50), reprinted by Small Ford Spares
• Clubs: http://www.ford100e.com

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Any car that was churned out in the 1950s at the rate of around 100,000 a year must have been reasonably decent, yet the sidevalve Ford 100E (and much rarer overhead-valve 107E) are now largely forgotten. They’ve been overshadowed by more modern offerings such as the Anglia 105E, Cortina and Escort, yet they offer basketloads of character and fun. Even when the 100E was succeeded by the Anglia 105E in 1959, it soldiered on alongside the new model until 1962 – that’s how in demand the model was. But the antiquated engineering has taken its toll on the number of sur vivors while the relative lack of usability means the 100E is often overlooked by classic car buyers; don’t you make the same mistake.

What to look for

Thanks to thick metal, rust isn’t as much of an issue as you might think. Repro panel supply isn’t bad either, while prices aren’t too steep. But lots of corrosion means restoration isn’t economical, so tread carefully. Key areas to check include the MacPherson strut tops, inner wings, sills, the bottom of each wing and all seams.

More likely to be a problem is a tired engine; the side-valve unit lasts just 25,000-40,000 miles between rebuilds. Changing the oil every 3000 miles will have made a difference. Thanks to white-metalled big ends, rebuild costs are high; converting to shell bearings is possible, but it just reduces rebuild costs, not their frequency. Even the later OHV 107E manages just 70,000 miles between rebuilds, so listen for rumbling main bearings.

Gearboxes also last just 40,000 miles, so check for worn secondgear synchromesh. Back axles wear and are complicated to rebuild; swapping for a 107E unit makes things easier. The Newton semi automatic is best avoided as it didn’t work too well plus parts supply is virtually non existent; most have been converted by now anyway.

There are nine grease points in the steering mechanism, including the track rod ends, and they all need lubricating every 1000 miles. Failure to stick to the correct servicing schedule means premature wear, so see how much play there is. The steering box can also wear, while rumbling from the back end suggests worn wheel bearings. Because the needle roller hub bearings run directly within the casing of the axle, the casing wears away and has to be sleeved, so jack up the car and check for play. As if all this isn’t enough, the handbrake mechanism can seize up, while there are six places where play can be taken up (or introduced) into the braking system.

Values

There’s no difference in values between the different models – condition is all. Expect to pay up to £200 for a complete restoration project. Good runners fetch between £700 and £1500 while the best cars cost £2500-£3000. A popular car for customising, don’t be surprised to fi nd 100Es with Cortina and even Mondeo engines now fitted.

Driving one

The 100E was a revelation compared with its predecessor, the ‘situp- and-beg’ Anglia/Prefect, but that doesn’t make the 100E any more usable. Sluggish this is not a car for long or fast journeys but fi tting a later Ford engine makes the car more acceptable. This Ford also not the best car for anyone who covers a lot of miles because there are several areas that need regular TLC and wear rates for some of the components are high. But as a car for occasional use it’s surprising fun, with plenty of charm.