Fast Facts
- Best model: 4.2 roadster
- Worst model: US-spec 2+2
- Budget buy: V12 2+2
- OK for unleaded?: Yes
- Will it fit in the garage? (mm): L 4453x W1656 (S1)
- Spares situation: Almost unsurpassed
- DIY ease?: Generally very good
- Club support: Excellent
- Appreciating asset?: Yes
- Good buy or good-bye?: Good buy
Luxurious in its day, the E-type’s cockpit is still a special place to be although it’s not overly comfortable or roomy plus heat soak can be tiresome in the summer. Not a trace of wood to be found, but interior restorations are still expensive, but parts supply is okay 
Main shot and Roadster pics: No wonder the E-type has been called sex on wheels! V12 engine is a lazy fireball, most autos. 
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The E-type may have reached its half century mark but the appeal of this Jaguar is as strong as ever
Pros & Cons
Nine out of ten cool cats who expressed a preference reckon this is the most glamorous, sensual car of all time. And is that any wonder? There aren’t enough superlatives in the dictionary to do the E-type justice; if grown men had car posters on their bedroom walls, this Jag would grace most of them. All those clichés about setting the world alight are true; this car, no an amazing 50 years old in 2011, really did rewrite the rulebook half a century ago. With looks, pace, power, engineering and heritage, the Jag also offered an extra quality over its rivals – relative affordability. While Aston Martin, Ferrari, Porsche et al offered worthy rivals, they were all much more costly. That price differential has remained; a superb E-type can now be a valuable piece of kit, but an equivalent DB4 or 250GT will cost you rather more. However you don’t need to win the lottery to bag this cat – if you look around bargains are still there for the taking.
History
When the E-type was unveiled at the 1961 Geneva motor show it was nothing less than a global sensation. It ushered in a new era of beautifully styled ultra-fast sports cars, but whereas its rivals were generally a lot more costly, the Jaguar was much more affordable – although such things are relative of course. You’d still need £2159 to buy a 3.8-litre roadster, which was a fair chunk of wedge, while if you wanted a coupé it would set you back £2261. But to put an Aston Martin DB4 in your garage would cost you double while a Ferrari 250 was nearly £7000. The E-type wasa serious performance bargain. Based loosely on the Le Mans racers but made for road use on a monocoque construction (a fi rst for a Jaguar sports car), compared to the old XK sportsters (which donated much of the running gear) it looked and felt from another era – which essentially it was. The chassis was mostly new and its most innovative feature was the now famous Independent resr suspension, that also found its way on to MKX Jag (another 50 year old) and was to servive both Jaguar and Aston well for over four decades.
There were open or closed E-types available from launch, all with the 3.8-litre straight-six XK engine taken from the XK150S. A great car vbut it wasn’t perfect because within a year the front fl oorpans had to be modifi ed to incorporate heel wells for comfort, which is why the earliest examples are known as fl at-fl oor cars. The Americans loved the car, of course, but as fast as it was demanded more guts from this cat. So come 1964 the engine displacement had grown to 4.2-litres and a Jaguar all-synchromesh gearbox replaced the old Moss design. There were also improvements to the brakes, servo and seats. The changes made the E-type even better although the car’s character notably changed with the larger engine, becoming not so sharp or thoroughbred. Jaguar engineers never liked the engine because it was a bit of a bodge job (the existing head didn’t quite align with the larger bores) but it boosted torque from 260lbft to 283lbft and served Jaguar well into the 1980s! American pressure also a 2+2 model offered in spring ‘66, with a longer wheelbase and higher roofl ine which gave the car a rather pregnant look and was disliked by the purists, as was the option of automatic transmission, again to appease Yank drivers. Slowly but surely the E-type was evolving from a serious sportscar to a cosy GT…
A Series 1 1/2 model arrived in 1967, with the headlamp fairings deleted and the engine modifi ed to meet US emissions regulations. This was only ever meant to be a transitional model though, before the launch of the Series 2 proper in 1968, designed to meet US safety regulations. There were now wrap-around bumpers, bigger sidelights (now below the bumper) and less power. However, the brakes were improved, changing from Dumlop to Girling three pot design and the rake of the windscreen was altered, which slightly helped the styling on the 2+2 model. The cabin was certainly improved even if those lovely toggle switches were ditched in favour of crashfriendly rocker types. Bloody Yanks interfering with this great car once again! It’s fair to say that the E-type was losing its grip on the sports car world. The advent of the likes of the Lotus Elan and Porsche 911 were a sign of changing tastes and certainly performance of the E-type had beenseriously diluted by now thanks to less power (as little as 175bhp in US twin carb tune) and more weight and fl ab. Browns Lane thought it had the answer though. A decade after the launch of the original E-type came the most controversial arrival of all; the Series 3 with V12 power. Based on the 2+2 wheelbase it was longer and wider but with far better interior space than before, the details and proportions of the original car were gone, which is why it’s taken so long for the Series 3 to be fully accepted; there’s little doubt that the 272bhp restored the status quo. From 1972 there was a steering lock fi tted, twin exhausts replaced the four-branch system in 1973, but that’s about the sum of the main changes. Then in 1974 the E-type was discontinued and the last 50 commemorative models were built. It was then the XJ-S’s turn to be accepted… But that’s another story entirely.
Driving
You could be forgiven for thinking that speed is the key thing that the E-type offers, but its talents are far wider than that. There’s a big difference between the driving experiences offered by early and late cars, as the Series 3 is more of a tourer than a sports car, so you need to work out what you want from your E-type. The Series 1 and 2 have very snug cabins, and if you’re much over 5’ 10” you’re going to struggle to get comfy. Assuming you can, you’ll fi nd the E-type fi ts around you so you’re almost wearing it. The Moss gearbox of the 3.8 isn’t the most pleasant or easiest to use while the brakes aren’t as strong as they might be, but these are gripes that were fi xed on the 4.2.
As a result, if you’re not fussed about having the fi rst of the breed, go for a 4.2 for its extra usability. From the Series 2 there was a 2+2 offered, with an extra nine inches of bodywork grafted in behind the front seats. While the new confi guration spoiled the E-type’s proportions, it gives a car that’s much more usable, while the dynamics aren’t inferior to those of the shorterwheelbasecars.Performance and handling are pretty much identical and there’s no performance penalty either, so if you can live with the looks, the 2+2 offers cut-price entry to E-type ownership. This leaves the Series 3, with its 5.3-litre V12. With its extra weight and size, the Series 3 is less wieldy than the earlier cars, but with twice as many cylinders it’s pretty much as quick. From a driving experience though, it’s the addition of power steering that makes the most difference as it completely changes the characteristics of the car. While there’s more feel than on contemporary Jaguar saloons, it still doesn’t match the set-up of the S1 and S2 – but for a grand tourer, it’s pretty much ideal. If you’re new to E-types – or old classic for that matter – the dream of driving this Jaguar may soon turn sour – it’s a 50 year old remember! The handling is soft (but entirely predictable and passable) and on standard tyres the grip is only fair comparted to today’s low profi le standards. So it’s time to adjust your hat and accept the E-type for its other qualities. That said, there a fair bit you can do to give this cat sharper claws (see our Improvements section).
Prices
There’s a massive spread of values from under £10,000 up to £200,000 – or over £1million for a genuine Lightweight. At the one extreme you can buy a 2+2 project car and at the other a superbly restored, heavily upgraded Series 1 roadster. Fixed heads used to be around half the price of roadsters but that gap has narrowed considerably. Series 1 FHC restoration project cars are still priced from £10,000 or so, while roadsters are typically half as much again. Many factors infl uence values including structural integrity, completeness, engine displacement (unless a very early car, the 4.2s are worth a shade more), whether matching numbers and whether LHD or RHD. For a usable car that hasn’t been fully restored or upgraded, expect to pay around £25,000 for a coupé and £30,000 for an open car. Really excellent original or restored examples start at £35,000 for coupés and £40,000 for roadsters. Some reputable dealers charge considerably more and with good reason, as a proper professional restoration costs at least £80,000 and upgrades can add far more. Steady rises in values in recent years have taken the cars out of reach for many. However, while everyone clamours for the earlier six-cylinder cars because of their greater design purity, the Series 3, or V12, is overlooked by many – despite being more usable thanks to its longer, wider bodyshell and superior engineering. These later cars may not be as beautiful as the iconic Series 1, but if you’ve hankered after an E for years and you’re on a budget, then the V12 is the car to go for. Don’t be put off by the higher running costs; fuel consumption isn’t an issue unless you plan to cover a signifi cant mileage each year – and most of us don’t of course.
However maintenance costs can be high although most specialists know this superb engine well. Low-mileage V12s abound, but check the history because clocked cars aren’t rare. Similarly, restored examples are sometimes claimed to be original, but with so many truly cherished cars out there, many run on a money-no-object basis, fi nding something worth buying isn’t diffi cult. High fuel prices and steep running costs have put many people off buying the V12 E-type, to the point where you can now buy a usable 2+2 for £10,000 – but it won’t be all that shiny and glam. Even the nicest 2+2srarely fetch more than £25,000, while you can typically add around 50 per cent to buy an equivalent roadster. Transmissions don’t generally affect values, but while buyers of fi xedheads don’t mind an auto, it’s the stick shift that roadster buyers usually demand. Last of the line Commemorative cars rarely surface for sale; mint examples have been known to touch six fi gures. US cars can be bargains especially if you’re prepared to stick with LHD (can be handy come resale time) and the lower power outputs.
Improvements
There’s lots you can do to give this car sharper claws – all you need is the money. For most on modest budgets just some well tried mods work well. The suspension and marginal brakes can be upgraded to S2 or S3 systems or even further if desired. New springs and dampers (Koni and Gaz work best on this chassis) together with poly bushes, particularly on the IRS, can give the cat’s old chassis a nice taut feel. Engine-wise electronic ignition and an uprated radiator with a Kenlowe (or similar fan) may suffi ce. A session on a rolling road to fi ne tune those triple carbs can pull out some cheap extra horses, too. On US cars, then a complete top end from a UK E-type engine (or Mk2 although it only used a twin 2inch SU set up) will put back a lot of the lost bhp but the best set up of the lot is the top end from an S3 XJ6 4.2. If the XK needs a rebore then up to 4.7-litres is possible but 4.5 is more than ample and cheaper to achieve. V12s probably have enough go as it is but replacing the old Lucas Opus electronic ignition is almost essential and possibly done already. Ditching the standard Stromberg carbs for equivalent SUs is said to greatly enhance overall performance and drivability but the conversion from Burlen Fuel Systems costs some £750. US cars wear a lower 3.5 axle ratio and ideally needs to be changed to make cruising less fussy while, thanks to their larger transmission tunnels the overdrive from a XJ6 can be grafted on to a 2+2 – or even the Rover SD1-derived fi ve-speed unit found on S3 XJ6s. Shorter wheelbased models can have a modifi ed Toyota Supra or Getag ‘box fi tted. Having said all this just a thorough service and work over by a good E-type specialist will work wonders on most cars and the best ‘mod’ you’ll ever make!
What To Look For
- There are E-types – and there are E-types and by and large you get what you pay for. Takeyour time and look at as many as you can and don’t buy in haste, even if you reckon it’s a bargain. Similarly drive as many as you can to gain a datum – these cats can vary enormously – usually if the suspension isn’t up to spec.
- Don’t be fooled by a glossy seductive appearance or those shiny wire wheels. What you are looking for fi rst and foremost is honesty and integrity with the car. As with any 50 year old car, rust repairs are going to be rife. And just because a car is restored doesn’t mean to say that it’s been done properly either…
- Decide what car you want. Most folks may yearn for the roadster but in fact coupes were the more popular when new – although it’s questionable if the survival ratio is as high. The fl at fl oor cars are the most coveted due to their rarity but early cars were pretty uncomfortable as a result –the seats were criticised when new. Although not as pure, the later the car, the better it’s been developed.
- You’ll fi nd the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust is invaluable in being able to provide you with details of the car’s original specifi cation. However, you should also invest in a copy of Philip Porter’s superb book Original Jaguar E-type, which will highlight any inconsistencies in the car’s specifi cation.
- The iconic XK powerplant of the E-type is renowned for its durability as long as it’s looked after. Easily capable of giving 150,000 miles between rebuilds and DIY friendly, the straight-six isn’t especially stressed unless the car is regularly thrashed – and few owners use their E-types very hard these days.
- Get the powerplant up to temperature before taking the car for a test drive; listen for any knocks or rattles as it gets warm. Do the usual checks for oil leaks as well as smoke from the exhaust; expect to see a few wisps when starting from cold, but things should quickly settle. Once fully warm, look for at least 40psi on the oil pressure gauge, with the engine turning over at 3000rpm.
- Allow the engine to tick over for a few minutes and make sure that the electric cooling fan cuts in; they often don’t.
- If the needle on the temp gauge just keeps climbing, the engine may have overheated at some point (Jags were prone to do this), so make sure there’s no evidence of the head gasket having blown, by looking for white mayonnaise on the underside of the oil fi ller cap, rusty stains, oil in the header tank, etc.
- If the engine is smoking badly or it’s very rattly, a complete rebuild is on the cards – but don’t get too hung up about this. You can also rebuild an XK engine at home for around £2000, or pay around double this to get it done professionally; it’s worth the added expense.
- The V12 that arrived in 1971 is one of the all-time great engines; properly maintained it’ll cover 200,000 miles with ease. However, poor maintenance leads to overheating, so idle the engine for several minutes and watch the temperature gauge. Harshness points to previous overheating; the long block and heads can distort through high temperatures.
- Because the V12’s block and heads are alloy, anti-freeze levels must be maintained. If they’re not, internal corrosion is guaranteed, leading to a less effi cient cooling system that ensures even worse overheating.
- Low oil pressure at idle isn’t a problem on this lump, but there should be at least 45lb (preferably 55lb) on the dial at 2500rpm.
- Oil leaks are common on all engines as the rear crankshaft seal tends to leak; once it has failed, a full rebuild is needed. A specialist charges £4000+, or you could do it yourself for £600 – if you’re skilled (it’s a heck of a lump to remove, that V12). Cars that have been run infrequently are especially likely to suffer from this, as the seal dries out then wears more readily.
- The V12 has 20 rubber coolant hoses; check they’re not perished because replacement can be involved; the water rails and carburettors have to be removed to renew some of them. They also need to be to the correct specifi cation; the coolant system runs at 15lb psi (earlier E-types are just 4lb psi), so the hoses have to be reinforced. A full set is £150.
- The original rubber fuel lines will need replacing by now as they’ll be brittle. It’s worth the expense to do it now at home…
- The Zenith-Stromberg carbs go out of tune when their diaphragms perish. Rebuilt carbs are the best solution; there are two at £350 each.
- The V12 is happy to run on unleaded in standard form, as hardened valve seats were fi tted on the production line. Most XKs, especially later S2s can do without lead too.
- The E-type’s transmission is tough, but listen for clonks that signify worn universal joints. Fixes are cheap and easy though, with DIY maintenance pretty easy.
- Less straightforward is a worn differential, betrayed by whining from the rear; a replacement axle costs £750.
- Gearboxes are also strong, but the recalcitrance of the Moss unit fitted to 3.8-litre cars is legendary. It’s also noisier than the later unit, so don’t expect a gearbox that’s especially easy or pleasant to use, particularly when selecting fi rst or reverse. If things are really noisy, expect to pay £900 for a rebuilt transmission, whether it’s a Moss unit or a later one.
- Most V12s have a three-speed Borg Warner Model 12 automatic transmission, but the Jaguar four-speed manual unit is more sought after. They’re both durable units, but the latter can suffer from weak synchromesh on second and third; check for diffi culty selecting gears when the ‘box is cold. If a revived manual ‘box is needed, expect to pay £400 for an exchange.
- If ratio changes are jerky on the auto, or there’s any slipping, the unit needs a service, involving fresh fl uid, fi lters and adjustment of the bands. If things are really bad an overhaul will be required; budget £1100 for a rebuilt box. Clutches are durable.
- Jack up each wheel and rock diagonally, feeling for wear in the bushes and bearings. Expect some play at the rear wheels; if there isn’t any, the bearings have been set too tight so will probably overheat and fail. There are bearings in the hub as well as the lower fulcrum; a little play in each can lead to what feels like an alarming amount of movement at the wheel, but it should be no more than an eighth of an inch or so.
- At the front there shouldn’t be nearly as much play in the wheels, although don’t be surprised if you can detect a small amount. If it’s bearing wear, that’s easy to sort, but it might be that the lower wishbone balljoints have worn. These act directly on the wishbone, which can be shimmed only so much before replacements are needed at a little over £100 per side. The front suspension is torsion bar which can be adjusted for height. Dampers and spring condition make a considerable difference to how an E-type handles so don’t scrimp here.
- Remove the rear wheels and look at the axle cage mountings, which can perish or break (especially if the car has been used hard|). If you’ve already driven the car by this stage, and it feels rather lively at the back, it could be because the rear-wheel steering is coming into effect as a result of the wear. There’s a myriad of bushes and they make a hell of difference to how any E-type drives.
- Ensure there’s no oil leaking from the diff onto the inboard rear brakes. Any signs of trouble and it’s an axle-out job to put things right.
- The rack-and-pinion steering is reliable and precise, but wear in the column universal joints is normal; replacement is easy and they’re just £65 for the pair.
- If there are creaks from the rear suspension, it’ll be because the lower hub pivots have corroded; if not greased regularly they wear out rapidly or seize completely.
- The brakes should feel very strong, but imbalance isn’t unusual – it’s usually caused by oil on the in-board rear discs, leaked from the IRS-mounted diff. Fixing this is involved as the diff has to come out.
- The handbrake usually gives problems – it’s a Jag after all; the self-adjusting mechanism often seizes through lack of greasing. Try to roll the car on a level surface and see if it quickly grinds to a halt; if it does, fi xing is simply a case of freeing off and greasing.
- Although steel wheels were standard, chromed wires are now fi tted to many Es. That means the usual checks are essential; take a close look for damaged spokes and worn splines; this is especially important with a V12 example because of the torque generated.
- Properly restoring an E-type is a hell of an undertaking, and many people get it wrong. If all’s well in the body department, the car is unlikely to give any insurmountable problems elsewhere – but check all is what it seems.
- If a car has been restored, poor bodywork repairs are one thing you’ll possibly have to contend with. If the car hasn’t been revived, E-types can rot just about anywhere, so check every square inch of metal – twice over.
- Beware ex-US cars changed over to right-hand drive, and 2+2s converted to roadsters. Many were done to cater for E-type demand in the 1980s and most conversions are usually fi ne, but values are always lower.
- Beware of US V12s hard topped and coupes chopped to make a roadster – they all share the same wheelbase, RHD cars have chassis numbers starting from IS1001 (roadster and IS5001 2+2s. LHD cars start with the 2 and 7 prefi xes respectively.
- Lift the fuel fi ller fl ap and see what’s lurking beneath; if it’s a mess, other bits will have probably been missed as this small detail can tell you a heck of a lot about how professional the restoration really was.
- Lift the bonnet and check for bulkhead corrosion, especially around the battery tray, which can be severe. The scuttle sides contain box sections, which rot badly from the inside out. By the time corrosion is visible outside, the inside is rotten as a pear, with repairs very involved thanks to the complex structure of the front end
- Panel gaps should be tight and even, especially where the bonnet butts up against the bulkhead. With the bonnet accounting for nearly half the length of the car, it’s tricky getting things to line up properly – which is why they often don’t.
- Also check all the seams as well as the front valance, which frequently harbours severe rot.
- Coupé tailgates rarely rust away but roadster and hardtop car’s boot lids do, along with door bottoms. In the case of the latter there should be a polythene sheet inside the door casing; it’s usually missing. The door fi lls up with water as a result, and with the drain holes often blocked up, the water has nowhere to go.
- Don’t overlook the frame ahead of the front bulkhead, which supports the engine, steering and suspension. The tubes that make up this frame can crack as well as corrode, and it’s not easy to check that all is well because it’s rather overcrowded in there. If any work needs doing, everything ahead of the bulkhead will have to be removed for proper access.
- Door locks can give problems so try locking, unlocking and opening each door from inside as well as out; don’t underestimate the hassle you could have getting everything to work properly. Central locking wasn’t fi tted so if it is present then it’s an aftermarket accessory.
- Electrics give few problems apart from the dynamo and voltage regulators, but unrestored cars suffer from poor earths or brittle wiring, easily fi xed with emery paper or fresh looms.
- On S3 V12s, the heater motor suffers from failed circuitry or seizure through lack of use (the engine usually provides all the heat you’ll need!), but access is easy as it’s next to the battery under the bonnet.
- There’s nothing to worry about with the interior trim, because everything is available, but it’ll soon get costly if everything needs doing. There’s no wood to restore thankfully which would swell the price considerably.
- Brightwork can be replaced; at a cost. Mazac bits such as door handles and tail lamp housings tend to be pitted.
- A fresh mohair roadster roof is £700, with fi tting the same again, so check what’s fi tted is intact.
- Fancy a US car? Well they’re cheaper if originating from a hot state there’s fair chance that the body will be in good order. The chief drawbacks are much reduced power (0-60 in 12.3 secs according to one magazine!) and fussier gearing – and perhaps the steering wheel still on the left. However, if you only use your E-type for special days then it’s not such a problem. AND you will own an E-type…
Three Of A Kind
Austin Healey 3000
A much more hairy-chested sportster than the Jaguar, the Big Healey is also a lot more affordable – although it’s easy to spend £40,000+ on a really superb example. Available in opentopped form only, there are 2+2 as well as two-seater versions available. However, while the 3000 is the fastest and most valuable of the lot, the 100 is better balanced with its four-cylinder engine…
Mercedes ‘Pagoda’ SL
If you can’t decide between a closed classic or an open one, this might be the answer, as most examples come with a hard top. Values are higher than you’d think; even an decent 230SL is £20,000+ while the best 280SLs can touch £100,000 now. The 280 is most valuable and most common of the lot, but for handling it’s the 230SL and 250SL which are the most adept.
Maserati Ghibli
When it comes to classics with cachet, few can compete with anything that bears the Maserati moniker. Impossibly exotic, the Ghibli offers supercar performance with looks every bit as sensational as the E-type’s – if nothing like as familiar. Closed cars are touching £100,000 for something nice while convertibles are well into six fi gures – if you can fi nd one for sale.Verdict
It’s easy to overlook the differences between the various iterations of E-type, but you shouldn’t because they’re highly signifi cant. Buy the wrong E-type for your needs and you’ll wonder what all the fuss is about. Also, don’t get taken in by the glamour of the roadster when the coupé is more affordable and every bit as good to drive – and better looking too in the eyes of many. If you’re after an original right-hand drive car, they’re a lot rarer than you might think. Around 85 per cent of E-type production was exported, which is why many right-hand drive E-types have been converted from left-hand drive at some point. The bottom line is that you must ensure the car you buy is what it claims to be. Check the correct powerplant is fi tted, that it’s a genuine right-hand drive car and that it’s not a roadster which left the factory as a coupé. You’ll fi nd the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust is invaluable in being able to provide you with details of the car’s original specifi cation. Crucially, there’s no such thing as a bargain E-type – only shades or more affordable. And you generally get what you ay for! It’s quite common for someone to buy an example that’s priced at £20,000 below what would be expected. Then the new owner starts delving and discovers that to get the car up to the standard they were expecting, it needs £50,000 spent on it. Few cars at any price are as rewarding to own or drive as a properly restored E-type. And there’s the rub; the car must be properly restored if any pleasure is to be derived from it – and there’s a huge amount of enjoyment to be gained from E-type ownership.
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