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Triumph’s straight six, 2.5-litre motor is easily maintained; it’s a straightforward, cast iron unit with plenty of room around the motor, and employing conventional overhead valve (pushrod) valve technology.
How easy are they to work on?
Triumph’s straight six, 2.5-litre motor is easily maintained; it’s a straightforward, cast iron unit with plenty of room around the motor, and employing conventional overhead valve (pushrod) valve technology. The ancillaries are easily maintained too, with the notable exception of the alternator drive belt (there is insufficient clearance under the crankshaft pulley to remove/re-fit the belt!) and the Lucas fuel injection system. This requires ‘sympathetic’ attention by a knowledgeable operator. To be honest, looking after this system is still not really a do-it-yourself proposition after all these years; it’s best to consult a specialist. If the injection system is out of tune, and/or worn, performance will be dismal and fuel consumption awful. The longevity of the running gear (especially the steering swivels) depends on regular and frequent re-lubrication, which is not difficult, but must not be overlooked at service-time.
Note 1: Mileage/time intervals shown are suggested for typical use; frequency will need to be increased under harsh operating conditions.
Note 2: The information in this feature is intended to be helpful, but is necessarily abbreviated. Please consult Triumph literature for full details of each aspect of maintenance.
Note 3: Suggested basic service intervals: At least every 3000 miles or annually, whichever comes first.
Ignition system
Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4.Spark plugs: Every 6000 miles or annually (whichever comes first) check, clean and re-gap if necessary; renew regardless every 12,000 miles. Plug type is NGK BP6ES or BP6EVG, or Champion N9Y or equivalent; electrode gap 0.025in. When screwing in the plugs, apply a little copper-based anti-seize compound to their threads, to aid future removal.Contact points: Check/clean the points every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first); renew regardless every 6000 miles. The correct breaker gap is 0.014 to 0.016in, corresponding with a dwell angle reading of 35±3 degrees. Distributor cap, rotor arm and high tension leads: Every 3000 miles, miles/annually, clean and carefully examine all components. Ensure that all connections are in good condition. At each service apply a few drops of engine oil through the distributor baseplate onto the distributor shaft and mechanical advance mechanism. In addition, apply a little high melting point grease to the distributor cam to prevent premature wear of the contact’s heel. Timing (static): Starting point 11 degrees Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC); marks are provided on the crankshaft pulley and the front of the engine. Re-check the timing after adjustment.
Cooling system and alternator belt
At every service ensure that the alternator drive belt is in sound condition (ESSENTIAL; please see below), and correctly adjusted. Deflection under firm thumb pressure applied midway along the belt run between the crankshaft and alternator pulleys should be approximately 1/2in (13mm). Note: To change the belt it is necessary to remove the chassis turret cross-member, also (usually) the crankshaft front extension and fan, as well as (possibly) the radiator. At each service check the strength of the anti-freeze and the condition of the coolant hoses/clips, radiator, thermostat and heater system. Every 12,000 miles/two years (whichever comes first), drain the coolant, reverse-flush the cooling system and re-fill with fresh anti-freeze mix. Cooling system capacity, including heater and expansion bottle: Approximately 11 pints (6.25 litres).
Engine
Overhead valve (pushrod), in-line six-cylinder 2498cc, 150bhp (125bhp from 1973)
Valve Clearances
Every 6000 miles or annually (whichever comes first), check/re-adjust the valve clearances, with the engine cold. First remove the valve cover, secured by three nuts (1/2in AF ring or socket spanner). The clearances should be 0.010in for both inlet and exhaust valves. The ‘Rule of 13’ can be applied - i.e. in each of the following cases the sum of the valve numbers is 13. With valve No. 1 fully open, check/re-adjust the clearance on valve No. 12. With 2 open, check/adjust 11. With 3 open, check/adjust 10. With 4 open, check/adjust 9. With 5 open, check/adjust 8. With 6 open, check/adjust 7. With 7 open, check/adjust 6. With 8 open, check/adjust 5. With 9 open, check/adjust 4. With 10 open, check/adjust 3. With 11 open, check/adjust 2. With 12 open, check/adjust 1. On re-assembly, fit a new valve cover gasket unless the original is in excellent condition.
Lubrication
Engine oil: At least every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first), change the engine oil and filter. Fully warm the engine up during a long run, then drain the old oil (7/16in AF ring or socket spanner for the sump plug). The oil filter is mounted horizontally, and bolted to the right side of the engine; before releasing the filter casing, place a suitable receptacle under the filter, to catch the old oil as it spills. Release the central retaining bolt (5/8in AF spanner) and remove the casing plus the filter element. Hook out the casing’s sealing ring from its groove in the cylinder block, then wipe clean the area, before fitting a new seal (lubricate with a little fresh engine oil to help sealing). Clean the filter casing in fresh paraffin, then wipe dry with - if possible - a fluff-free rag. Re-assemble with a new filter element, and re-fill the sump. Run the engine and check for leaks.
Please dispose of old oil in an environmentally friendly manner - local councils provide waste oil collection points. The oil capacity is approximately 8 pints (4.54 litres); use a good quality, ‘full-bodied’ multigrade oil (for example 15W50, 20W50 or 20W60). Gearbox/overdrive/final drive oil: At least every 6000 miles or annually (whichever comes first), check/top up the gearbox and final drive oil levels (with the vehicle horizontal). In each case take out the filler/level plug (7/16in AF spanner) and check the oil - it should be up to the base of the threads in the filler aperture. If the level is low, check for leaks and rectify before simply topping up. Use SAE90EP oil for top up purposes. (Note: The overdrive oil is shared with the gearbox).
Brakes
At least every 3000 miles or annually, whichever comes first: Check servo operation and ensure its filter is not clogged. Examine the fixed brake pipes, flexible hoses and the master cylinder. Renew any ailing components AT ONCE. Closely check the front brake pads and discs (check for warping and scoring). Remove the rear brake drums and inspect the shoes, operating cylinders and drums. On re-assembly, check rear brake adjustment (if necessary, re-adjust shoe to drum clearance, using square-headed adjusters on backplates; for full details, consult your workshop manual).
NOTE: AVOID INHALING DUST FROM THE PADS/SHOES - IT MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS. WEAR A MASK AND USE A PURPOSEDESIGNED BRAKE CLEANER FLUID TO HELP ELIMINATE AIRBORNE DUST. DO NOT BLOW OUT DUST USING AN AIRLINE!
Every 12,000 miles, dismantle and clean the rear brake adjusters; on re-assembly, sparingly apply copper-based anti-seize compound to the adjuster threads. Check at each service that the handbrake mechanism moves freely and is properly lubricated. Ensure also that the cables/linkages are not worn. At each service, check handbrake operation, and only re-adjust (at the cable end forks) if lever travel is still excessive after first adjusting the shoe-to-drum clearances (for full details, please consult your workshop manual). At least every 18 months/18,000 miles (whichever comes first), drain the brake fluid and re-fill/bleed system using fresh fluid (fit new brake seals/cylinders if required).
Sundry Items
Every 3000 miles, or annually (whichever comes first)... Check brake and clutch fluid levels. Clean the oil filler cap and crankcase breather valve. Scrutinise the steering rack and ball joint gaiters for splits. Check for wear/excessive free play in the front wheel bearings (please consult your workshop manual). Assess all electrical connections and wiring. Check propeller shaft couplings. Assess the condition and security of the exhaust system, all running gear components, steering mounts/attachments, and suspension components, mountings and bushes. Check that all mounting bolts/nuts are all tight - including the wheel nuts (on wire wheels check the spokes and splines). Check the shock absorbers for deterioration/leaks. Inspect the underbody for damage and rectify paint blemishes. Assess all tyres (including the spare) for condition, wear pattern and pressure. Every 24,000 miles, after taking the vehicle for a long run to warm the oil, remove both the filler and drain plugs from the transmission and allow all the old lubricant to escape into a suitable container. Re-fill with fresh oil; the capacity (with overdrive) is approximately 3.5 pints (1.99 litres). Note: There is no requirement for routine draining/re-filling the final drive unit. Steering rack: Every 3000 miles, re-lubricate the rack; in order to facilitate this, remove the screwed plug and replace with a grease nipple. Running gear: At least every 3000 miles, apply multi-purpose, lithium-based grease to the upper front swivel joints and lower trunnions; first wipe clean the nipples, and ensure that they are not clogged with dirt or old, congealed grease. Note: Some examples have blanking plugs fitted; remove these and screw in grease nipples. At least every 3000 miles, re-lubricate the inner driveshaft greasepoints (where grease nipples are fitted); additionally, every 12,000 miles remove the rear wheels and outer sections of the driveshafts and comprehensively re-grease the splines. Every 3000 miles, apply grease to the handbrake cable guides and compensator assembly. Every 12,000 miles, check/re-grease the front wheel bearings (use grease specifically stated as being suitable for wheel bearings). Water pump: Every 3000 miles, re-grease the water pump (where a lubrication point is provided; remove the blanking plug and screw in a grease nipple). Other aspects: Every 3000 miles/annually: Re-lubricate the accelerator linkage/pivots. Re-lubricate the hinges and lock mechanisms (wipe off any excess lubricant).
Fuel System
Every 3000 miles or annually, whichever comes first: Closely examine all fuel system pipework and connections. At least every 6000 miles renew the air filter element. To gain access to the filter element, release the stay bar from the radiator cowling, and unbolt the cowling. Detach the trunking from the housing, take off the filter casing lid (single nut at forward end of assembly) and extricate the element. On re-assembly, before installing the new air filter element, ensure that the housing is clean, check the state of the sealing rings and ensure that all the hoses are all unobstructed. Every 12,000 miles, renew the fuel filter; DEFINITELY NO SMOKING! The filter is located within the spare wheel compartment, in the boot. Remove the spare wheel and place a suitable receptacle beneath the filter, to collect any petrol, which may spill. Detach the pipes to and from the filter (plugging or clamping the inlet pipe - or else the fuel tank will empty!). Release the filter assembly’s retaining bolt, and detach the filter element plus the lower part of the casing. Remove the sealing rings and the bolt sealing washer. Fit a new filter, sealing rings and bolt sealing washer, making sure that they all seat properly. Before re-fitting the spare wheel, start the engine, run it for a few minutes and check for petrol leaks. Other aspects of the fuel injection system are best left to knowledgeable specialists.
Thanks
Grateful thanks to Mark and Rachel at Southern Triumph Services of Bournemouth Tel. 01202 423687. E-mail: .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) Southern Triumph Services can help with all aspects of keeping a TR6 (or any other classic Triumph) on the road
You should be able to remove the fan belt and replace, without any hassle if the car body/ engine/ cross bar ,are all in their correct positions.
No need to remove anything other than the belt itself !
Comment by: paul newman Posted on: 13 Dec 2011 at 11:36 AM