Rolls Royce Silver Shadow
Published: 5th Dec 2011 - 0 Comments - Be the first, contribute now!
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Do you drive this great classic or are thinking of buying one? Here’s how to ensure that you get the best out of your car for years to come…
The Silver Shadow was the fi rst Rolls to feature a monocoque, construction. In addition, it wore disc brakes and independent rear suspension plus a Citroën-type, high-pressure hydraulic system. So, it was a complex car and time hasn’t made it any simpler to maintain. But, with help from clubs such as the Rolls Royce Enthusiasts Club, which runs its own seminars and practical workshops plus the specialists now catering for the car, running a Roller can be a realistic option for common people like us!
1 Engine Output
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The original 6.2-litre V8 produced around 172bhp, but from 1970 a more powerful 6.75-litre took over with nearer 189bhp. We say ‘nearer’, because all of the engines were hand-built, so none would have been exactly the same. Few people consider modifying the engine for higher performance, but it will respond to the usual tweaking of the head and carbs for better breathing – or fi tting a Bentley Turbo engine!
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If an engine has been poorly maintained and the oil isn’t changed frequently enough, problems can occur with the hydraulic tappets and push rod valve gear – any ticking should dispel when warm. Repairs can mean an expensive top-end rebuild. Fitting new sleeve liners to the bore isn’t a DIY as the block has to be heated up. Exhaust manifolds are known to crack (£500) per bank.
2 Bottom End
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Older engines can suffer from oil leaks and specialists supply gasket and seal kits. Crankshaft oil seals were only fi tted to the last of the SII, with most having oil throwers to throw oil back into the engine.
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A well maintained V8 will cover well over 250,000 miles and the block is incredibly solid. Problems can occur where anti-freeze has not been changed annually, causing the iron liner to contract through corrosion, when it begins to squeeze the piston, causing it to knock, sounding like a work bearing or sticking tappet. Fitting new sleeve liners to the bore isn’t a DIY as the block has to be heated up.
3 Front Suspension
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Experts say it’s also not worth trying to retrospectively fi t later (T2) upgrades onto earlier cars, since the cost wouldn’t be justifi ed. There is a long stroke damper kit (£235) and aftermarket dampers can be used – Boge are popular to tighten the handling.
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The self-levelling hydraulic suspension was only fi tted to the front of the Silver Shadow up to 1969 and it’s a complex system with perishing seals and corroding pipework to deal with on neglected cars. Hydraulic fl uid should be changed every four years. The numerous ball joints, bearings and bushes in the front suspension set-up can suffer from general wear and tear after time and you may need a specialist to tell you exactly what needs replacing – usually £100 a piece.
4 Brakes
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There’s no need to upgrade the system but, every 96,000 miles, or eight years, you need to overhaul it, with new rubber seals and valves. This can cost £2000 and then some, but is essential to keep the high-pressure system working properly. Poor brakes could be the wrong pads – Escort MK2 ones fi t nicely…
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The difference with a R-R is the cost of repairs: if the rears need replacing a specialist tool is needed, and you can pay up to £700 in parts alone to get the job done. However, it’s worth noting that the Rolls Royce Enthusiasts Club has a stock of special tools which it lends out to members. The wrong type ruins the system.
5 Gearbox
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Experts say that it’s not worth trying to upgrade your car’s gearbox, and the cost of trying to fi t a later three-speed Turbo Hydramatic 400 into an older four-speed car just wouldn’t be worth it. The cars originally had a four-speed auto-box, with a better three-speed unit fi tted from 1970.
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To keep them working well you need to change the oil regularly. on the early four-speeder this should be done every 24,000 miles and you have to drain down both the box and the torque convertor. On later three-speed, this has to be done more regularly, every 12,000 miles, but you only have to drain the gearbox.
6 Body and Chasis
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One ‘modification’ that can disguise previous poor repairs is to re-spray the car in a two-tone scheme, saving the cost of full re-spray. This is something to look out for if you’re buying a car – check for signs of fi ller or bodged repairs. Secondhand panels are readily obtainable.
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The body consists of a steel monocoque shell, with aluminium doors, bonnet and boot lid. As a result, the body can corrode to to a reaction between the metals. Common areas include the ‘lips’ around the edge of the wheelarches, plus the front and rear wings. Special repair panels are available to treat small areas such as the wheelarches. The sills normally only rust at the ends but, if the whole sill has corroded, replacements can cost £2500 per side! Never let a leaky windscreen rubber fester as it soaks the soundproofi ng and rots the floor!
7 Panels and Trim
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If the leather has been left to decay, a full re-trim will cost you from £5000 upwards. However, you might get away with just replacing small section of the hide. Generally, most switchgear is still easy to get hold of.
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The interior of a Silver Shadow is expensive to repair if it has been left. Leather should be treated regularly with hide food and it’s possible to repair small section of damage to the wood veneer – one area of damage is the veneer on the door cappings, which get hit with the seatbelt buckle if it is released quickly by a careless owner.
8 Electricals
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In most cases, you’ll want to replace electrical components with similarspec units, but some items are worth modifying. For example, specialists can supply upgraded starters to replace the Lucas unit.
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As a luxury car from the days before micro-chips, the Shadow has a complex wiring system, with plenty of servos and motors, working everything from the electric seats to the windows. When repairing these items, their access is the costly part, in terms of labour, but parts are available.
9 Rear Suspension
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A popular modification, is to fi t the Harvey Bailey Kit, which costs no more than standard bits and transforms handling without ruining the ride.
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Spring pans rot, causing it to fall out but repair kits cost £100. Subframe mounting bushes perish and as rear self-levelling works under pressure a quality gauge to check it is essential. It’s a known leaker but seal kits are available and may save you hundreds on new valves.
10 Details
Although the Shadow is still a complex piece of kit, the high quality workmanship means it’s a pleasure to work on. Many people fear them say experts but actually there’s no need to as long as you have a workshop manual. What you can’t get around however is the cost of good parts. Keeping one in tip-top shape can get as expensive as the badge suggests. The good news is that there are R-R breakers to contain costs – but specialist labour rates can still sting. This is why a solid service history is paramount.
Top Tips
Shadows and the equivalent but rarer Bentley T alternatives look temptingly cheap but experts say the going rate for a good car that needs little further work is around £13,000 and you get what you pay for. Earlier pre’77 cars seems to be gaining appreciation for their purer look but the later cars do drive appreciably better – it depends how you drive one. Sample as many as possible to gain a datum.
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