Lotus Elan

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Elans differ and reliability is all down to initial build and subsequent care. There’s really no set maintenance schedule more a case of keeping on top of things.

Engine

Ford-based; twin overhead camshaft in-line four cylinder. 1558cc, 105 bhp to 126 bhp.

Sundry items

Every 3000 miles, or annually (whichever comes first): Inspect the chassis for damage and rectify any paint/underbody coating blemishes. Assess the exhaust system for security/leaks. Examine the steering rack gaiters for splits/leaks. If damaged, the gaiters should be replaced, to prevent water and dirt from entering. Re-lubricate the rack after fitting a new gaiter or gaiters. Take a close look at the Rotoflex couplings; renew at once if cracks or other deterioration are found. If a coupling disintegrates, the flailing driveshaft can cause extensive damage (and in a +2 is potentially dangerous for rear seat occupants). Check the driveshafts for bending and damage. Assess for damage the rear lower wishbone bushes, also the tie rod bushes. Scrutinise the shock absorbers for deterioration/leaks; examine the springs for damage.Assess the timing chain for rattling. Check the chain adjuster too; if it is already screwed fully in, the chain needs to be renewed (this can take 20 hours!).Check all electrical connections for cleanliness and security; inspect the wiring for damage. Examine the bonnet securing spring; renew if ailing. Check the vacuum pipework for the headlamp lifting mechanism; renew if the hoses and/or connections are in poor condition.

Cooling system

Throughout the year, use high quality anti-freeze mixture containing corrosion inhibitors.Every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first), take a close look at the radiator, all hoses, the water pump and fan.At every service, make quite sure that the water pump is not leaking, and that the pump’s bearings are not excessively worn. To avoid premature wear of these bearings, run with the drive belt as loose as possible, consistent with effectively driving the dynamo, cooling fan and water pump. Many Elans have had electric cooling fansretrospectively fitted; at each service ensure that the fan cuts in/out as required. At least every three years, drain the cooling system, remove the thermostat and reverse-flush the system before re-filling with fresh anti-freeze mixture. Always observe the dilution recommendations of the anti-freeze manufacturer (printed on the container). Capacity, including heater: Approximately 14 pints (7.96 litres).

Ignition

Firing order: 1-3-4-2 (No. 1 cylinder at front). Spark plugs: Autolite AG32 or equivalent (for sustained high speeds, AG22 or equivalent). Gap 0.023in. to 0.028in. Check/clean the plugs every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first); ideally renew them regardless every 6000 miles. The correct torque wrench setting is 25lb.ft. To prevent seizure of the plugs in the cylinder head, smear alittle copper-based anti-seize compound on the threads. Contact points: Gap 0.014 to 0.016in. (corresponding with a dwell angle of 60 +/- 3 degrees). Renew the contact points every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first). The distributor is mounted very low down; it may be easier to remove the unit in order to tackle contact points changes. Distributor cap, rotor arm and high tension leads: Every 3000

Sundry items

Every 3000 miles, or annually (whichever comes first): Inspect the chassis for damage and rectify any paint/underbody coating blemishes. Assess the exhaust system for security/leaks. Examine the steering rack gaiters for splits/leaks. If damaged, the gaiters should be replaced, to prevent water and dirt from entering. Re-lubricate the rack after fitting a new gaiter or gaiters. Take a close look at the Rotoflex couplings; renew at once if cracks or other deterioration are found. If a coupling disintegrates, the flailing driveshaft can cause extensive damage (and in a +2 is potentially dangerous for rear seat occupants). Check the driveshafts for bending and damage. Assess for damage the rear lower wishbone bushes, also the tie rod bushes. Scrutinise the shock absorbers for deterioration/leaks; examine the springs for damage. Assess the timing chain for rattling. Check the chain adjuster too; if it is already screwed fully in, the chain needs to be renewed (this can take 20 hours!). Check all electrical connections for cleanliness and security; inspect the wiring for damage. Examine the bonnet securing spring; renew if ailing. Check the vacuum pipework for the headlamp lifting mechanism; renew if the hoses and/or connections are in poor condition. miles, clean and assess condition, making sure that all the wiring and connections are sound. Distributor - mechanical aspects: Every 3000 miles, apply a little high melting point grease to the distributor cam. Timing: Refer to the marks on the crankshaft pulley and timing case – in increments of 10 degrees, starting with Top Dead Centre (TDC). Static setting: (Note: These figures should be regarded as starting points; re-adjustment following a road test may be beneficial,). Early cars, Lucas 25D4 distributor, 14 degrees BTDC. Early cars, Lucas 45D4 distributor, 7 degrees BTDC. Lucas 40953 distributor, 12 degrees BTDC. Lucas 41189A distributor (+2 models): Early, 10 degrees BTDC; late, 12 degrees BTDC.

Lubrication

Engine: For maximum engine life, ideally change the oil and filter AT LEAST every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first). Early cars featured replaceable filter elements housed within a removable casing. However, on later examples, a screw-on filter was employed. Always use a high quality, ‘full-bodied’ multigrade engine oil, such as SAE15W50, 20W50 or 20W60. The thinner viscosity modern lubricants are unsuitable for these engines. Always check for leaks on completion of the oil/filter change. Please dispose of old oil in environmentally friendly manner - local councils provide waste oil collectionpoints. Sump capacity: Approx. 7.5 pints (4.3 litres) - but for early cars, just 6 pints (3.4 litres).
Gearbox: Every 3000 miles/annually (whichever comes first), check/top up the gearbox oil (with the vehicle horizontal). Unscrew the filler/level plug from the left side of the gearbox and ensure that the oil is up to the base of the threads in the filler plug aperture. Use SAE80EP oil. Every 12,000 miles (approximately), drain the gearbox (following a long run, when oil has fully warmed up), then re-fill with fresh oil. Gearbox capacity: Approximately 1.75 pints (1 litre).
Rear axle: Every 3000 miles/annually (whichever comes first), remove the filler/level plug and ensure that the oil is up to base of the threads in the plug aperture. Every 12,000 miles (approximately), drain the axle oil after a long run, and re-fill with fresh oil. Use SAE90EP.
Axle capacity: Approximately 2 pints (1.14 litres).
Running gear: At least every 3000 miles, lubricate the front suspension. Apply multi-purpose, lithium-based grease to the upper ball joints (where greasepoints are fitted), and SAE90EP gear oil to the lower trunnions. At each service check for wear in the steering/suspension. With the front of the car raised and securely supported, hold each wheel in turn at the top and bottom, and attempt to rock it in and out, to check for excessive free play in the wheel bearings and ball joints. Rocking from side to side will help to detect wear in the steering system. Employing a wood block as a fulcrum, and with the aid of a long bar, lever each wheel in turn up and down, while an assistant watches for movement in the trunnions.
Front wheel bearings: Every 12,000 miles, re-lubricate the bearings with grease specifically stated as being suitable for wheel bearing use.
Wheels: Whenever the wheels are removed, take off the wheel retaining ‘spinner’ nuts with the wheels clear of the ground (so that the wheel/spinner can be rotated to provide the easiest access to the spinner). Employ a soft-faced hammer to release the spinner.
Other aspects: Every 3000 miles, lubricate the carburettor pivot points and controls, also the accelerator pedal pivot. Every 3000 miles, lubricate the hinges and lock mechanisms (always wipe off excess lubricant). Every 3000 miles, lubricate the pivot points for the clutch and brake pedals. Every 12,000 miles, re-lubricate the dynamo rear bearing (apply a few drops of engine oil).

Valve clearances

Selective shims control the valve clearances. In normal use re-adjustment (a major operation) is not regarded as a routine servicing operation. All the same, it is a good idea to check the clearances on a regular basis (ideally approximately every 12,000 miles). In order to remove/fit the shims, the relevant camshaft is removed. To check the gaps, for each valve in turn slowly rotate the crankshaft until the camshaft lobe is pointing directly upwards, and insert a feeler gauge betweenthe camshaft and the cam follower. The recommended clearances (cold) are: Inlets 0.005 to 0.006in; Exhausts 0.006 to 0.007in. (early) or 0.006 to 0.008in. (late). Check often to ensure that the valve cover nuts are tight. The possibility of oil leaks arises whenever a new valve cover gasket is installed. To minimise the chances of a leak, tighten the nuts, start the engine and run it for some time, then stop the motor and re-check that the nuts are still tight.

Fuel system

Examine the air filter element and renew if choked, or in any case at least every 6000 miles. Ensure that the air box trunking is in good condition (if not, renew) and properly connected. Every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first), scrutinise all fuel system pipework. Ensure it is sound, securely attached and are not leaking (VITALLY IMPORTANT as any petrol leaks are potentially disastrous in terms of fire risk). At every service, establish whether the carburettors’ flexible mountings are in good condition and correctly set up (please consult workshop manual). The carburettor fixings should NOT be over-tightened or the flexible ‘O’ ring mounts will be damaged. When the valve clearances and all ignition settings have been checked/set, and with the engine fully warmed up, check/re-set the carburettor settings. Use proprietary equipment and consult your workshop manual for full details of correctly balancing/setting-upthe carburettors. On conclusion, check/re-set the idle speed (aim for 800 rpm).

Brakes

At least every 3000 miles or annually, whichever comes first: Look closely at the brake pads (renew in pairs if the thickness of remaining friction material is less than approximately 0.2in./3mm.) and also check the discs. Check/renew the separate handbrake pads too. Ensure that the discs are not excessively worn/grooved, and that they are not cracked (renew in pairs). Check that the caliper mounting bolts are secure, and lock-wired together. Make sure that the handbrake calipers can move freely from side to side; re-lubricate the pivots, moving them backwards and forwards as necessary. Examine also the brake pipes, flexible hoses and master cylinder. Renew any ailing components in axle sets. AVOID INHALING DUST FROM THE PADS – THIS MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS. At least every two years, renew the brake fluid..