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Ford Escort RS 2000

Published: 13th May 2011 - 0 Comments - Be the first, contribute now!

Ford Escort RS 2000

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Every 3000 miles, or annually (whichever comes first)... Check brake fluid level. Examine the steering rack gaiters for splits/leaks. If damaged, the gaiters must be replaced at once, to prevent the ingress of dirt and moisture


Overhead camshaft, in-line four-cylinder 1993cc, 110 bhp


Every 12,000 miles/annually (whichever comes first), check the valve clearances, with the engine cold. Remove the screws securing the cam cover (always fit a new gasket on re-assembly), then lift away the cover. Check the clearance for each valve with the cam lobe facing away from the camshaft. The gaps for the inlet valves (Nos. 2, 4, 6 and 8) should be 0.008in. ( 0.2mm.), and for the exhausts (Nos. 1, 3, 5 and 7), 0.010in. ( 0.25mm.). If re-adjustment is needed, release the (lower) locknut using a 19mm. ring spanner, and turn the adjuster nut (with a 13mm. ring spanner) until the correct clearance is obtained. Re-check the gaps on completion of any adjustments.


At every service, it is essential check the condition of the camshaft’s rubber toothed belt, and renew it if there are any signs of cracking or other damage, or oil contamination (cure the leak before fitting a new belt!). This should help to prevent the possibility of belt breakage and possible contact between the valves and pistons.


Spark plugs: Autolite/Motorcraft BF32 or equivalent. Gap 0.023in. (0.58mm.). Check/clean every 6000 miles or annually (whichever comes first); renew regardless every 12,000 miles. The plugs are taper seat types; avoid over-tightening. The application of a smear of copper-based anti-seize compound to the plug threads when fitting will aid removal of the plugs in the future. Firing order: 1-3-4-2 (No. 1 cylinder at front of car). Contact points: Bosch distributor, gap 0.018in. (0.46mm.); Motorcraft distributor, gap 0.025in. If using a dwell meter, aim for a dwell angle reading of 48 to 52 degrees. Check/clean points every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first); renew regardless every 6,000 miles. Distributor cap, rotor arm and high tension leads: Every 3000 miles/annually, clean and assess condition, ensuring that all connections are sound. Apply a smear of grease to the distributor’s cam. Timing: Reading anti-clockwise, the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley represent 8 degrees Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC), 4 degrees BTDC, TDC and 4 degrees After Top Dead Centre (ATDC). The initial static setting (also the dynamic or strobe setting, at 800±25 rpm, with the vacuum pipe disconnected). is 8 degrees BTDC.


Every 3000 miles/annually, examine all fuel system pipework. With the engine fully warmed up, and with the valve clearances and all the ignition settings correct, adjust the carburettor mixture and idle speed/tickover settings (please consult your workshop manual for full details). Note thatthe tickover adjuster is rather concealed by the standard air filter. Aim for a CO reading of 1.5±0.25%, and an idle speed of 800±25 rpm. Every 12,000 to 18,000 miles (or sooner if visibly dirty; check every 6000 miles), renew the air filter element. To extricate the filter from the original Ford filter housing, first release the three securing bolts (10mm. spanner) and single nut (also 10mm.), then unclip the five spring clips securing the two sections ofthe housing. Take care not to drop/lose the small fasteners. At each service, ensure that the breather pipework is clean.


Engine oil: For maximum engine life, change the oil and filter at least every 3000 miles or annually (whichever comes first). Drain the oil (using a 19mm ring or socket spanner on the sump plug) when the engine is warm, to help purge all debris from the sump. When changing the oil filter, wipe clean the sealing face on the cylinder block before fitting the new filter, and lubricate the sealing ring on the filter with a little fresh engine oil. Use top quality multigrade oil, for example SAE 15W/50, 20W/50 or 20W/60. Please dispose of old oil and filter in an environmentally friendly manner - local councils provide waste oil collection points. The oil capacity, including the filter, is approx. 6.6 pints (3.75 litres). Gearbox/overdrive oil: At least every 3000 miles/annually (whichever comes first), check/top up the gearbox and rear axle oil levels (with the car horizontal); in each case the oil should be up to the base of the threads in the filler aperture. Top up if necessary with SAE 80EP oil for the gearbox;


At least every 3000 miles or annually, whichever comes first: Closely inspect the fixed brake pipes, flexible hoses, master cylinder and servo/pipework. Renew any ailing components AT ONCE. In addition, carefully check the front brake pads and discs (which are prone to scoring and/or warping as they age). To remove worn pads, take out the retaining clips, slide out the pins holding the pads, and withdraw the pads. Remove the rear brake drums and examine the rear shoes, cylinders and drums. AVOID INHALING DUST FROM THE PADS/SHOES – IT MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS. USING A PURPOSEDESIGNED BRAKE CLEANER FLUID WILL HELP TO ELIMINATE AIRBORNE DUST. Check handbrake operation and re-adjust the mechanism if handbrake lever travel is excessive (consult your workshop manual for full details). The ‘official’ recommendation for checking was to release the handbrake, apply a 110lb. load to the brake pedal, then assess handbrake lever travel – the handbrake should be fully applied at eight ‘notches’ of lever travel. The knurled adjuster for the handbrake mechanism is under the car. After adjustment, ensure that brakes are not binding with the handbrake lever in the released position. At least every 18 months/18,000 miles (whichever comes first), change the brake fluid. SAE 90EP for the differential. Note that the gearbox filler/level plug is extremely close to the floor of the car; take great care when topping up. Note that drain plugs are not fitted to the gearbox or axle. Check at each service that all handbrake mechanism pivot points move freely and are properly lubricated. Other aspects: Every 3000 miles/annually, lubricate the carburettor pivot points controls, and pedal pivots. Every 3000 miles/annually, lubricate the hinges and lock mechanisms (wipe off excess lubricant).


At all times use top quality anti-freeze mixture containing corrosion inhibitors. Consult product manufacturer’s instructions for mixture strength. Ideally use distilled or de-ionised water in the cooling system, rather than tap water. Every 3000 miles/annually, inspect the radiator, all hoses and their securing clips, the fan and the water pump. At least once a year, examine/carefully clean with a soft brush the exterior of the radiator. At least every three years, drain the system, remove the thermostat and reverse-flush prior to re-filling the system with fresh anti-freeze solution. At each service, check that the alternator belt is in good condition and correctly tensioned - approx. 1/2in. (13mm.) deflection under firm hand pressure, applied mid-way in longest belt run.


Every 3000 miles, or annually (whichever comes first)... Check brake fluid level. Examine the steering rack gaiters for splits/leaks. If damaged, the gaiters must be replaced at once, to prevent the ingress of dirt and moisture. Check for wear/excessive free play in, and re-lubricate front wheel bearings. Check clutch adjustment (approximately 22mm. or 0.9in. pedal ‘lift’; please consult your workshop manual). Check all electrical connections; inspect all wiring for damage. Assess the condition/security of all running gear components, steering rack mounts/attachments, and suspension mounting bushes, also the ball joint gaiters. Ensure that all suspension mounting bolts/nuts are all tight. Check the shock absorbers for deterioration/leaks. Examine propeller shaft couplings. Inspect the underbody for damage and rectify paint blemishes.

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